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alexa chung, anna piaggi, Bjork, Columns, Fashion, Grace Jones, gwen stefani, isabella blow, style, style icon, style maverick, unusual
24 Thursday May 2012
Posted in Fashion, Inspiration, Licentiate Columns, Subculture
Tags
alexa chung, anna piaggi, Bjork, Columns, Fashion, Grace Jones, gwen stefani, isabella blow, style, style icon, style maverick, unusual
01 Tuesday Nov 2011
Posted in Fashion, Inspiration, The Reading List
Tags
book review, celia birtwell, david hockney, Fashion, Inspiration, Inspirational women, style icon, The Reading List
Celia Birtwell isn’t a relevatory memoir, nor is it a rollicking trip through one of the most dynamic periods in British design. And thank God for that.

Instead, Celia Birtwell and fashion writer Dominic Lutyens have compiled a thoughtful, beautifully illustrated overview of one exceptionally talented woman’s life in design.

Celia Birtwell has always been one of those shadowy, enigmatic figures in fashion. Overshadowed in terms of scandal by her flamboyant husband and partner in design Ossie Clark and seen through the prism of David Hockney’s view in his many paintings and drawings of her, we have never had a real chance to see Birtwell as she would like to be seen. It’s a rare opportunity to read a book that has for it’s subject a person who is both creator and muse.

As a retrospective, this is long overdue. Birtwell’s career has spanned decades, from couture to homewares to a much lauded collection for Topshop, she’s been there, done that and designed the t-shirt (or crepe de chine blouse, more likely).
It’s sumptuously illustrated – with the perfect mix of sketches, personal photos, artworks and fashion photography. And from the centre of each page, Birtwell shines out, either in her designs or as a twinkly-eyed, Pre-Raphaelite maiden.
The book is meticulously referenced; every person, place or thing that makes an appearance in the book is given pride of place. Every print has a name and a history. Every influence is of equal importance.
If you’re looking for scandal and intrigue, you’ve picked up the wrong book. While never giving the reader the impression that she’s holding anything back, the heartbreak and difficulties that she had to go through are never dealt with in any deep, personal way. However, we get the impression that this isn’t becuase Birtwell is knowingly concealing facts, but rather because her personality spurs her to take everything on the chin and keep looking towards the future. An admirable (and unusually rare) trait. One of my favourite books this year.
14 Sunday Aug 2011
Posted in Fashion, Film, Photography
Tags
fashion characters, fashion history, film costumes, it seemed like a good idea at the time, Madonna, magazine spreads, style icon, stylish film, Tom Munro, Vanity fair, Wallis Simpson
As a person who is fascinated by Wallis Simpson (I’ve blogged about her here), it was with some degree of collar tugging and teeth grinding that I learned about Madonna’s intention to film her life as a biopic, W.E.
I don’t hope that this film will win Oscars, or propel it’s stars to fame, or even get many positive films. I just don’t want it to be total pants. A someone who likes Madonna’s music but isn’t too clued-in on her film making activities, I think that’s a realistic hope.
If this photo feature in this month’s Vanity Fair is anything to go by, then the film will be visually stunning, which is no bad thing. The costumes for W.E. were designed by Arianne Phillips (she of the terminally stylish, Tom Ford-helmed A Single Man) and draws on decades of Simpson’s couture consumption.
Photographer: Tom Munro for Vanity Fair. Photos via Fashionising
31 Sunday Jul 2011
Posted in Fashion, Inspiration, Photography, Subculture
Tags
Amy Winehouse, Fashion, French Vogue, Inspiration, Isabeli Fontana, magazine spreads, Peter Lindbergh, Photography, sad, style icon, thinking too much about stuff, Vogue Paris
Isabeli Fontana as Amy Winehouse for French Vogue, February 2008.
Styled by Emmanuelle Alt, shot by Peter Lindbergh.
This shoot was part of Vogue’s Bad Girls issue and was published at the zenith of Winehouse’s bloodstained ballet shoe tabloid breakdown. I wonder if it’s done in bad taste, but I also know that French Vogue love their bad girls and especially love women who just don’t give a fuck (something Amy once shouted during Bono’s Grammy acceptance speech) – the same issue has another shoot of Natasha Poly as Anna Nicole Smith (!) so the tongue is plainly planted well in cheek.
I’m not very good at commemorating people, terrible at commemorating people I didn’t even know – so there’s nothing really for me to say except that I was a huge Winehouse fan. I’m sad that she’s gone and every time I listen to one of her songs now and feel that her voice could be my voice, that she’s singing out everyone’s primordial cry of loss, that her songs relate to everyone’s hurt, I’m tinged that little bit more with sadness.
Here is a much better article about Amy Winehouse, written by Alexis Petridis for The Guardian. Click to read.
17 Friday Jun 2011
Posted in Fashion, Inspiration
Tags
alexa chung, angelica huston, anna piaggi, anna wintour, audrey hepburn, cheryl cole, daisy lowe, francoise hardy, Grace Jones, grace kelly, italian vogue, Kate Moss, lists, Louis Vuitton, personal style, rumi neely, sofia coppola, style icon, stylish women, tavi gevinson, the sartorialist, thinking too much about stuff, Valentino
If you read yesterdays’ post, you’ll know why ‘style icon’ should be split into subcategories. Apart from it appealing to my nerdy/slightly anal nature (I’d arrange my clothes by the Dewey Decimal system if I could) some so-called icons just don’t measure up to their counterparts.
Instead of style icons, we should have style gods, style heroes, style deities, style inamoratas, style simulacrums, style mediocrities and style ‘marks for effort’.
Here’s my (incomplete) list of women that I think deserve iconic status, in descending order. Style is subjective, so no-one is going to agree 100% with me. If you violently agree or disagree, then leave a comment and tell me who’d be on your icons list. Play nice now.
Style Goddess: Audrey Hepburn
Other Style Goddesses: Brigitte Bardot, Grace Kelly
Style Deity: Angelica Huston
Other Style Deities: Kate Moss, Francoise Hardy
Style Hero: Anna Piaggi
Other Style Heroes: Tavi Gevinson, Grace Jones
Style Inamorata: Sofia Coppola
Other Style Inamoratas: Alexa Chung, Anna Wintour
Style Simulacrums: Daisy Lowe
Other Style Simulacrums: Rumi Neely, Cheryl Cole
There’s no point in listing mediocrites, because by definition if something is mediocre then it can’t reach iconic status. And no point in including ‘marks for trying’ people, because I’m typing this in a pair of old pajamas and that would just be too hypocritical.
Who’s on your style hit list?
16 Thursday Jun 2011
Posted in Fashion, Licentiate Columns
Tags
audrey hepburn, cate blanchett, cliches, Cork Independent, fashion questions, fashion theory, funny, givenchy, how to wear, i am pedanto, i do work you know, icons, Inspiration, kim kardashian, lazy journalism, Licentiate Columns, marilyn monroe, newspaper columns, paris hilton, person style, published work, sarah waldron, style conundrums, style icon, the licentiate, theory, thinking too much about stuff, what does it all mean
There are certain phrases that get bandied about by fashion magazines, usually when a writer is bored or an editor is lacking in imagination. These phrases include classic offenders like ‘the new black’ or ‘bang on trend’. Here’s an example. ‘Lazy journalism and sad, trotted-out cliches are the new black; in fact, one might say that this bloated, terminally sluggish way of writing is bang on trend.’
These are words that are overdone, outmoded and obsolete. They’ve been published so many times they no longer make sense. It’s not unlike repeating the word ‘spoon’ to yourself over and over until the word eventually loses all meaning.
Words like ‘fashionista’. Words like ‘key pieces’ and ‘must haves’. Words like ‘covetable’ or (and I unashamedly shudder as this is typed) ‘funky’. Words that jump completely from their actual dictionary meaning to garbled fashion Esperanto.
Let’s not forget the Big Momma of fashion cliches. The perennial ‘style icon’.
I’ve been (rightfully) accused of using the word ‘icon’ far too often. Every writer does. It’s just far too easy to pick stylish people whose personal taste in clothing has outlasted the vicious six-monthly cycle of fashion and lump them in the category of immortal stylishness once they became difficult to categorise.
In the fashion publishing world ‘style icon’ means ‘I want her wardrobe. She’s either old enough to have lots of vintage or thin enough to get lots of couture freebies’.
But that’s not what an icon is. In it’s strictest definition, an icon is a religious work of art. If an icon can mass millions of copycat followers who draw personal guidance from it’s every move, provoke international hysteria, veneration and an unhealthy public obsession with the sacred thing’s appearance, then Kate Moss is definitely a style icon.
An icon can also be used in the language of symbols. An icon can be a person, place or thing that can represent something else of a greater significance. Audrey Hepburn dressed in a Cecil Beaton monochrome costume for My Fair Lady = Style Icon. Cate Blanchett in Givenchy Couture at the Oscars = Style Icon. Kim Kardashian in a stretchy satin bandage dress at an inredibly anonymous product launch with a gigantic American Football player on her arm = Style Icon (of a sort).
As an aside, I find it very interesting that a person is never a style icon, it’s the way that they’re represented. It’s the clothing that makes the person an icon. Maybe Polonius was right after all.
The problem is that, as the world gets smaller technologically, it gets more and more crowded. Our ability (some might say suicidal need) to instantly share information means that more and more of these ‘icons’ are being shoved into a small space. There just isn’t enough room to go around.
Not all style icons are created equal. For every Marilyn Monroe there’s a thousand Paris Hiltons. They really should be split into leagues in descending order of stylishness, like British football. Do you think that Manchester United versus Yeovil Town would be a fair match? No, me neither.
Instead of style icons, we should have style gods, style heroes, style deities, style inamoratas, style simulacrums, style mediocrities and style ‘marks for effort’.
The only trouble is who is going to go to all that effort and categorise all these clotheshorses. Not me, that’s for sure. Because I am a fashion journalist, and I am far too lazy.
20 Thursday Jan 2011
Posted in Fashion, Licentiate Columns
Tags
Fashion, Jackie O, Licentiate Columns, Mad Men, Marilyn Monro, nostalgia, online shopping shenanigans, style, style icon
Have you been watching Mad Men? I was unaware of the hype surrounding the acclaimed American drama until this Christmas, when I was presented with the first two seasons of the show. On Monday, I sat down to watch an episode. A few days, and the development of some very square eyes later, I have finished the box set.
It is an excellent programme; smart, funny, knowing, genuine, mysterious, well-written and excellently characterised. And stylish, incredibly so. Interweaved into the lives of the Mad Men, the ad men in the grey flannel suits, waft three very different woman; Betty, the highly-strung, neurotic ex-wife of leading man Don Draper, Joan, the sexually voracious, va-va-voom office manager and Peggy, the token woman copywriter in a man’s man’s world.
It’s unsurprising then that the style of Mad Men has become a source of inspiration for shoppers and designers everywhere. Prada’s A/W ’11 collection was lifted heavily from the strict, ultra feminine silhouette of the show, incorporating cat’s eye spectacles, sinched-in waists, circle skirts and bouffant do’s. ‘Mad Men’ has become one of the most searched terms for vintage clothing vendors on the internet – for women in search of that perfect ‘downtrodden housewife’ look.
Every aspect of the show is carefully considered. Even the books that Don and Betty read reflect their personalities and periods of mental stasis in some way. This attention to detail is no different in the costuming; designer Janie Bryant has very specific colours and patterns assigned to each female character. Betty has pretty floral dresses in classic shapes á la Grace Kelly, Joan wears jewel bright tones and form-fitting shapes and Peggy gets the short end of the stick with checks, plaids and a particularly nacreous shade of mustard.
It makes perfect sense that women who emulate the Mad Men style are characterised as either a Joan or a Betty. In one episode of the show, a Playtex campaign is pitched with the conceit that a woman is either a Marilyn or a Jackie. One is straight-up-and-down, the other has an abundance of curves. One is a wife struggling with her husband’s numerous infidelites, the other is a fleshpot with a more pragmatic view of human couplings.
In truth, the only difference between Joan and Marilyn or Betty and Jackie is the colour of their hair. Yes, they look great, but would you really want to be either of them?
I like Peggy best. She’s smart, she’s savvy, her character is the one who has evolved the most consistently, from timid secretary in little-girl dresses to a no-nonsense, helmet-haired boardroom babe in navy fitted suits. She works hard and tackles all obstacles head-on. It’s a testament to her character that her wardrobe is the least appealing to the viewers but she manages to retain an aura of chic. I may have a vintage plaid dress or two hanging up in the wardrobe in homage to this particular proto feminist (just not in mustard, my admiration only stretches so far).
In the Playtex pitch meeting, Peggy counters that she is neither a Marilyn or a Jackie. Her male equivalents variously describe her a Gertrude Stein or a young Irene Dunne. In truth, Peggy is neither, but is unequivocally herself. Neither Jackie nor Marilyn, but inimatably Peggy – individuality is a Mad Men style that will always be in fashion.
30 Tuesday Nov 2010
Posted in Inspiration, Subculture
Tags
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| The Slits in 1977. Ari up is third from left. Photo – Ian Dickson |
- Simon Reynolds in Rip it up and Start Again
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| Note the knickers-over-trousers. Photo – Caroline Coon. |
Stupidly, one of the posts that I’ve left on the back burner was a remembrance of Ari Up, a punk singer and forming member of The Slits. Their songs were a formative influence on me when I first went to college and was experiencing first-hand what it meant to grow up and be a woman and not someone who treated Sex and the City like a lifestyle Bible. Cut has to be one of my favourite albums. If you ever have a bad day wondering why that hot guy only likes the other hot girls, or if WAGS make you despair of your life, or bad that you don’t have the same waistspan as Cheryl Cole, then listen to Typical Girls and feel much better for having the courage to just be yourself.
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| No prizes for guessing which one is Ari. Photo – Ray Stevenson |
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| Photo – Caroline Coon |
From a style point of view though, Ari Up was an inspiration not in what she wore (there’s NO way I could pull off the Superman look) but in her attitude towards clothing. She wore what she wanted, when she wanted. She had dreads piled up on top of her head like a modern day Rococo wig. She wore facepaint twenty years before a legion of Oxegen and Glasto goers. She was variously Punk, proto-Goth and Rasta. She applied the same freedom of thought to her wardrobe that she did to her lyrics. She didn’t really care about the judgement of others. It suited her just fine. And that is definitely something to admire.