Art, Fashion, Inspiration, The Reading List

Things to Read #11

ben giles

Ben Giles’ new collage series, All in My Head, is super.

How do you solve a problem like the Monty Python reunion? This is a great article.

“With visibility is supposed to come admiration, respect, access, affluence – and for most of such men, it delivers. Yet for the rest of us, with visibility comes harassment, stalking, threats, loss of career opportunity and mobility, constant public humiliation, emotional and sometimes physical violence.” How being internet famous (or just visible to other people) can make women a target for online violence.

“Even today, several generations removed from the devastating critique of their triviality that was at the heart of first-wave feminism, Marie Claire and other women’s magazines remain obsessed with the appearance of female public figures, an obsession that still extends far beyond them into leading news publications like the New York Times and the Washington Post. You can take the woman out of the woman’s magazine, but the style of coverage—and it is all about style—remains the same.”

The London Review of Books goes to London Collections: Men.

Diane von Furstenburg talks Warhol and Studio 54 and some more stuff that she’s perennially associated with.

On being a Times Square Elmo (it’s never as much fun as it sounds, is it?)

This Nabokov essay from 1972 is a must for anyone who struggles with writing inspiration.

 

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Art, Fashion, Photography

A Pop, Op and a Jump – Lacey for Vogue Nippon

British Photographer Lacey was an assistant to Tim Walker – and it really shows. Her inventive use of props (by design pair Craig and Karl) and collaboration with make-up artist Andrew Gallimore have made the pages of Vogue Nippon even more mind-bending this month. Styled by Beth Fenton, it’s part Pop, a little Op and a big, glam wheelbarrow of weird brilliance.

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Fashion, Licentiate Columns

Licentiate Column 14/06/12: Free Gifts in Magazines (and what they say about you).

June the first is a momentous day. Yes, it’s the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. I know how much we all care about that. Yes, Forbidden Fruit is about to kick off the Irish Festival circuit and thus the official start of Irish Summer. And yes, these are all excellent excuses for total inebriation.

June the first is also an important day for frugal women the country over, for June the first is the day that Glamour UK comes out in Ireland – complete with free Benefit cosmetics. Every June Glamour will give away Benefit swag, newsagents will get incredibly annoyed at the amount of punctured plastic pockets and stolen face primers and beauty junkies will buy copies in bulk and leave the surplus paper in their local recycling bins. People will claim their luxury sample size primers, have a flick through a magazine which makes you worry if everyone is kinkier than you (short answer – probably not, it doesn’t matter as long as you’re happy) and hopefully not file it away for future reference.

Today I bought four, count ‘em, FOUR copies of Glamour. This is not reverting to type. I love magazines, but my shopping list usually consists of luxury biannual tomes, thick as the Book of Kells, usually full of Cindy Sherman pictures and chimpanzees in Prada (it’s conceptual, dahling). These magazines are usually called something like Blorft or Zip! and will invariably have a cover image of a supermodel or obese person in the nip or a slightly obscure but actually incredibly mainstream person like Bjork swaddled in cotton wool, diamonds and a smattering of neon pigeon shit.

I also buy hard-to-get foreign magazines where the editorials are populated entirely by beautiful transsexual women or frosty Scandinavians. The covers are clean, severe and as close to blank as a brand new A4 drawing pad as possible. The title will have a lot of umlauts or dashes through the letter ‘O’ and the contents will sometimes scare me so much that I’m glad that I can’t understand the text.

Sometimes I will just buy a magazine because it looks like it could be a prop in a Wes Anderson film (The Gentlewoman), or Sophia Coppola’s latest effort (Lula). Sometimes I will buy a magazine because it seems smart, but it is always just pretentious and a little bit sad. Once, I bought a fashion magazine that was about… drum roll.. people who write for fashion magazines. Proof that the fashion industry will one day eat itself. But the magazines really do tie the room together when you fan them out of a coffee table. Martha Stewart taught me that.

In a way, buying these magazines isn’t a measure in the pretension mentioned above, because they are often heavy and unwieldy, and so are totally unsuitable for reading on public transport. If no-one sees you being pretentious, then you’re not pretentious. You’re just being you, which altogether may be a much more depressing prospect.

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Fashion, Inspiration, Photography, The Reading List

The Reading List: Stylists

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‘Stylists’, the new book by prodigious fashion scribe Katie Baron, promises to be the essential starter book for anyone interested in the relatively recent cult of the superstylist.

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The pictures are presented in a scrapbook style, seemingly torn out of magazines and pasted in, or in overlapping, slightly off-centre collage, it’s not just an homage, but also how stylists often start gathering ideas and inspiration (several of the subjects mention tearing photos out of magazines as how they first got on the road to their current career). It’s a clever conceit that neatly ties all the profiles together.

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The stylists come from different facets of magazine publishing, from the obvious (Anna dello Russo and Lula editor Leith Clark) to the not so much (Francesco Souriges), the beautiful and the avant garde, the dark and the light. As an accurate cross section of stylists at work today, it’s definitely representational of European stylists. America doesn’t really get a look in.

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Each profile comes with a sampling of the stylist’s work and a two page interview, talking about his or her roots, how they got into the industry and what their creative fingerprint is. Like his work, Nicola Formichetti’s personality almost bursts out of the page. Jacob K is as quietly enigmatic as his styling might suggest. Christiane Arp weaves German pride into her issues of Vogue.

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If you want to learn more about the superstylist phenomenon, this really is an essential buy. Even seasoned fashionophiles will find something inspiring within these pages. Katie Shillingford’s profile had me reaching for my back copies of Dazed and Confused to remind myself of just how good she is at her job, while I was pleasantly surprised to learn about German magazine, Sepp, which is a blend of men’s fashion and football (I’ve GOT to get my hands on a copy).

‘Stylists’ is informative, beautifully laid out and a great source of inspiration. Highly recommended.

‘Stylists’ is out now and published by Laurence King.

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Art, The Reading List

What I did in London, told by the books I bought.


Saturday – a stroll down Portobello Road, a rummage in the market stalls, dinner at El Camion and a root through Oxfam Books for some bedside reading.

Sunday – to Leicester Square Theatre for Stewart Lee’s Carpet Remnant World (Couldn’t wait for him to come to Ireland in May).

Monday – A trip to the National Portrait Gallery, then to Chinatown for Dim Sum…

…then some shopping in Covent Garden. Go to Magma Books. Just do it.

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Fashion, Photography, Subculture

I am a Camera

One of the first lines in Alone in Berlin, Christopher Isherwood’s Weimar-era novella, reads;

I am a camera with its shutter open, quite passive, recording, not thinking

With that slightly depressing line in mind, let’s look at British Vogue’s ‘I am a Camera’ shoot for it’s February issue.

This editorial takes the idea of the front row fashion blogger and turn it on its head.  It’s interesting, considering how much inspiration that bloggers get from magazines, that a magazine should draw inspiration from bloggers so late in the game.

Still, bloggers are outsiders in the fashion world.  ‘I am a Camera’ seems to suggest that bloggers are passive observers of fashion – they never mould or guide what fashion is to become.  Maybe I’m reading into it wrong, but that’s what it looks like to me.

It’s utter bollocks, of course.  Bloggers do help to accelerate and even kick-start trends (um, Susie Bubble anyone? Tavi?) I’ve met quite a few front row bloggers and they spend more of their time editing photos and doing 40+ hours of work in other jobs and less time than you’d think prancing around gritty urban settings/stately homes in the new Prada flame heels and taking pictures of themselves picking their teeth in fabulous hotel suites.

This shoot is still pretty great.  A really original concept, great styling and lovely pictures.  I especially love the photos where the clothes are lovingly organised on the suitcase and the bed – accessorised with a half-devoured room service breakfast.  But of course.

I am a Camera, British Vogue Fab 2012.  Tati Cotliar by Raymond Meier.  Styled by Charlotte Pilcher.  Images via Hey Crazy (http://heycrazy.wordpress.com/2012/01/09/i-am-a-camera/)

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Art, Fashion, Inspiration

Inspiration: French Women

Is it just me or is November a little, well, flumpish?  You know, it gets dark at six and it’s cold and rainy and it seems that nothing is very inspiring.

I bet French women don’t have that problem.

Lou Doillon

Francoise Hardy

Sonia Rykiel

Francoise Sagan

Emmanuelle Seigner

All illustrations by Isaac Bonan for Milk Magazine.

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Fashion, The Reading List

Giveaway #4: Supercute LolaDee Handmade Goodies!

You want more stuff? The I’ve got it. Up for grabs are a toothache-inducingly cute zipper brooch and pair of earrings from LolaDee Handmade. LolaDee is the moniker of Corkonian Lorna Dollery, who also has a blog called Thing I Fell In Love With Today.

LolaDee Handmade accessories are made from new, vintage and recycled materials and are gaining quite the cult following.  Lorna sells her wares on Etsy and at markets – she also does custom orders! You can contact her via email for more details.

Sound good?  So, the competition is as follows.

1. Subscribe to the blog by email.  Just click the button on the top left of the homepage.  That way, I’ll be able to contact the winner via email.

2.  Leave a comment at the end of this post.  Easy as.

FOR EXTRA ENTRIES!

1.  Follow @The_Licentiate on twitter and tweet ‘Win @Lola_Dee goodies with @The_Licentiate http://thelicentiate.com/2011/09/01/giveaway-loladee-handmade/’.  Don’t worry if it’s too many characters, twitter should automatically shorten it.  It would only be lovely if you followed @Lola_Dee on twitter as well.

2.  Like The Licentiate and LolaDee Handmade on facebook.

3.  If you’ve got a blog, blog about the giveaway for an extra entry.

VERY IMPORTANT

You must subscribe to the blog to enter

If you’re leaving extra entries, make sure to leave a link in the comment sections telling me how you entered and what your twitter/facebook/blog links are (delete as relevant).  If you don’t leave a comment, I may not know that you’ve entered, and we want to make this as fair as possible!  The winner will be picked at random.  Competition closes on 15/09/11.

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Fashion, The Reading List

Giveaway #3: A Yearly Subscription to NONE Magazine

If you’re anything like me, you love a good magazine.  Magazines are a tactile, visual experience.  Way better than a computer in terms of visual appreciation.

From Tea Petrovic

Today we’ve got a year’s subscription to NONE Magazine.  If you haven’t heard of it, I highly suggest that you pick up a copy in your nearest Easons.  NONE is a Cork-based, internationally staffed, quarterly magazine.  If I could describe it accurately in terms of other magazines, I would.  The closest I can get is that I think it’s like a cross between POP and Dazed and Confused, reflected through an Irish mirror.

Because the magazine is based in Cork, I don’t think that it gets the exposure that it deserves.  It’s all about Dublin at the moment, so if you’re not based there, you can be left on the sidelines.  NONE is a great magazine unlike any other in Ireland and it isn’t specific to Cork.  It could be published in any great European city (and as far as I know, several national imprints are in the works).

Photo from Blaubushka

 

Photo from Blaubushka

The magazine is a mix of daring, imaginative fashion and beauty editorials, with interesting features. It has featured the talents of many of Ireland’s best and brightest in the fashion community.  Best of all though – this competition is worldwide.  Even better – if you don’t win and you don’t live in Ireland, you can pick up a digital edition on the website.

Sound good?  So, the competition is as follows.

1. Subscribe to the blog by email.  Just click the button on the top left of the homepage.  That way, I’ll be able to contact the winner via email.

2.  Leave a comment at the end of this post.  Easy as.

FOR EXTRA ENTRIES!

1.  Follow @The_Licentiate on twitter and tweet ‘I want a subscription to @WeAreNone with @The_Licentiate http://thelicentiate.com/2011/08/31/giveaway-none-magazine’.  Don’t worry if it’s too many characters, twitter should automatically shorten it.  It would only be lovely if you followed @WeAreNone on twitter as well.

2.  Like The Licentiate and NONE Magazine on facebook and tag us in a post on your facebook page.

3.  If you’ve got a blog, blog about the giveaway for an extra entry.

VERY IMPORTANT

You must subscribe to the blog to enter

If you’re leaving extra entries, make sure to leave a link in the comment sections telling me how you entered and what your twitter/facebook/blog links are (delete as relevant).  If you don’t leave a comment, I may not know that you’ve entered, and we want to make this as fair as possible!  The winner will be picked at random.  Competition closes on 14/09/11.

 

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